Chronicles of Cork

On the right-bank of the Rhône is Cornas, located on the right bank of the Rhône River and perched on the eastern slopes of the Massif Central, is a distinguished appellation celebrated for its exceptional red wines made exclusively from Syrah grapes. The name "Cornas," derived from ancient Celtic, means "burnt earth," aptly reflecting the region’s rugged, sun-drenched terroir.

The vineyards benefit from south-facing slopes that form a natural amphitheater, providing protection from cold winds and fostering early maturation of the grapes. This unique microclimate allows Cornas to be among the first red wines harvested in the Northern Côtes du Rhône.

Cornas wines are renowned for their deep, almost black color with purplish tints when young, which gradually evolves into an amber hue with age. Known for their robustness, these wines are among the most powerful in France, and they develop complex flavors over time. As they mature, the tannins soften, revealing rich aromas of black fruits complemented by a spiced, licorice-like finish.

The history of Cornas' vineyards extends back to ancient times. The Romans are believed to have established the first terraces and "chaillées" (dry stone walls) in the region. Legend has it that Charlemagne, during his travels in 840, enjoyed Cornas wine so much that he had some sent to his residence in Aix-la-Chapelle. The wine has since been favored by numerous historical figures, including Saint Louis, Louis XI, Charles Quint, Richelieu, and Louis XV.

Syrah is the only variety of grape used in this appellation. The variety is able to express its full flavour potential in this region. Cornas produces a very dark red wine: almost black with purplish tints when young, becoming amber with age. It is one of the most robust French wines. These wines age superbly: their tannins round over time and it develops aromas of black fruits, with a spiced, “licorice” finish.

Cornas’ vineyards are very old, dating from ancient times. The first terraces and “chaillées” (walls) were likely made by the Romans. Legend has it that Charlemagne himself tasted the wine when travelling through Cornas in the year 840, and liked it so much that he had some sent on to his residence in Aix la Chapelle. Saint Louis, Louis XI, Charles Quint, Richelieu, and Louis XV are some of the more famous Cornas lovers.

The first written evidence of Cornas wine can be found in the 10th century, when a canon from Viviers mentioned the church in Cornas that was “surrounded by vines”. In 1763, a document describes a “strong wine” that was produced in Cornas. The Appellation was awarded in 1938, and was originally limited to 100 hectares in the single county, but was extended in 1960 and quadrupled in volume.

Jean-Luc Colombo is indeed a prominent figure in the Rhone Valley, known for his expertise and influence in the wine industry. His role as an oenologist has significantly impacted the quality of wines in the region, both through his consulting work and his own wine production.

In Cornas, Colombo produces three main cuvées, each reflecting different levels of quality and vineyard specificity:

Les Terres Brûlées: This is the entry-level cuvée, offering a solid representation of Cornas with good fruit and structure.

Les Ruchets: Sourced from a specific vineyard, Les Ruchets is a step up in quality and showcases more complexity and refinement.

La Louvée: Formerly known as Cuvée JLC, La Louvée represents the pinnacle of Colombo's Cornas production, featuring exceptional depth, richness, and aging potential.

Colombo’s Bordeaux training and extensive consulting work for prestigious growers in the Rhone Valley have shaped his approach to winemaking. His wines are known for their impeccable vinification, rich fruit flavors, and prominent oak influence, all while maintaining a smooth, polished profile. This combination of qualities has made him a key player in the evolution of Rhone Valley wines over the past two decades.         

Jean-Luc Colombo Terres Brûlées Cornas 2017

This wine has a smoky quality that adds depth. The delicate notes of vanilla, anise, and black pepper provide a balanced counterpoint, creating a rich sensory experience.

Great flavors of preserved black cherry and plum" indicates a robust fruit profile, with lifted acidityand fine persistent tannins. The wine has a big structure. The 2017 Cornas wine is approchable and drinkable now and has the potential to age beautifully until 2035. Editors' Choice. Score - 95. (Anna Lee Iijima, Wine Enthusiast, July 1, 2020)

Available at The LCBO $76.00 a bottle.

Marcel Bregstein's education in the club management field, includes degrees in business, F&B and Catering Management, Club Operations, and Sommelier training. Since 1997, Marcel has held several positions at The Toronto Hunt, first as the F&B Manager, then Clubhouse Manager, and today serving as the Assistant General Manager. Marcel achieved his CCM designation in 2017. Marcel was inducted into the “Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne” in 2015 and was knighted by Mr. Taittinger and bestowed the title of “Chevalier.” Marcel has attempted to break the Guinness World Record for the most bottles sabered in one minute; he is currently ranked second in the world. He has raised over $500,000 for the Michael Garron Hospital and other charitable foundations. Marcel has been published in several magazines, interviewed on TV, and is currently filming a wine show set to air in 2025. Click here for a sneak peek!