Chronicles of Cork

Chronicles of Cork - Wine of the Month

By: Kevin Spicknell
Clubhouse Manager
Certified Sommelier
Mississaugua Golf and Country Club

Welcome to the Chronicles of Cork where we will be looking at wines that might not be on everyone’s everyday shopping but are available in the Vintages section of the LCBO and are worth checking out. In the inaugural edition of the Chronicles of Cork - Wine of the Month, we will be tasting through one of my favourite Italian wines, Taurasi and specifically the Santandrea Taurasi DOCG 2017. 

Taurasi DOCG is made in the Campania region of Italy and is from the Aglianico grape.  Campania is located in the Southwest portion of Italy and is a destination for anyone who is looking to enjoy the gastronomy of Italy. One of the iconic landmarks in the region is Mount Vesuvius as it towers over the regional Capital of Naples. This landmark is a huge draw for the tourism industry of the region; it also has had a huge impact of the wine making culture and terroir of the region. Much of the soil is composed of a mixture of clay, limestone, and deposits of volcanic sediment from the eruption of Vesuvius almost 4000 years ago. This composition of layered soils is the foundation of the characteristic unique flavour profile of wines in this region. 

Aglianico is a black skinned grape with great pedigree and is spoken of in the same esteem as Nebbiolo and Sangiovese as one of the great varietals in Italian Wine. Taurasi is described as the Barolo of the South as it is considered one of the most noble and age worthy wines in all of Italy.   

The Santandrea is beautiful in the glass while being dark, opaque with an almost violet tone while some slight fading around the rim. On the nose, there are notes of rich dark fruit including blackberries, black cherries with some hints of star anise, freshly ground espresso with slight touch of Kalamata olives. This wine has large elements of earth tones including fresh cut firewood as well as chopped rosemary. 

On the palate, the wine is rich, full bodied, with a backbone of acidity that helps round out the wine. This acidity is trademark of well-made Aglianico as it allows the wine to come across as voluminous while being juicy at the same time. The tannins in this wine are definitely present but are more fine silky tannins and are less aggressive than other wines made from Aglianico. The finish is long and complex as the flavours on the palate come together to linger and create a unique finish. 

One of the few challenges that can arise from wines made from Aglianico is that they can be so big and powerful, that they are considered a “food wine” or not enjoyable unless accompanying a meal. When you consider the power and richness of the Santandrea Taurasi DOCG, it is incredibly approachable and able to be enjoyed on its own or with a bowl of pasta. 

From a gastronomy point of view, the region of Campania has a storied history with food as it is the historical home of pizza and home to the famous water buffalo whose milk is used to produce the world-renowned buffalo mozzarella. In terms of food pairings, a big wine like Taurasi should be paired with a dish with big, bold flavours that can stand up to the tannins and richness of the wine. A classic pairing for this wine would be any meats cooked on a charcoal barbecue, grilled leg of lamb or Italian classics like Osso Bucco.   

The Santandrea Taurasi DOCG represents great value at $30.95 and would stand up to any of the classic Brunello di Montalcino’s of Tuscany or the Barolo’s of Piedmont in a blind tasting. A major factor in a quality wine is its ability to be aged, and the Aglianico grape and especially those made in Taurasi can be aged up to 20 years and beyond. While age worthy, Taurasi is a great wine because it can be consumed early as well as put in the cellar to mature for years to come. The Santandrea shows great typicity and is a showcase for how special the Aglianico grape can be when in the hands of incredible winemakers. Some other key producers of note are Mastroberardino, who was one of the original producers in the region and the pioneer of Taurasi, as well as other noteworthy wineries like Guastaferro and Feudi di San Gregorio. 

Try something new and enjoy a bottle of Taurasi during your next Pasta Night.  

Santandrea Taurasi DOCG 2017 
LCBO #172692 - $30.95